Basic maintenance to get a car through its MOT

Forum Forums Forum for Indian people living in the uk Basic maintenance to get a car through its MOT

This topic contains 12 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by  nick123 1 week, 3 days ago.

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  • #978

    mo
    Participant

    New tyres? Check Oil? Water? What are the basics you should do before putting your car in for an MOT

    #979

    nick123
    Participant

    Lights are always a good one to check. I am amazed by how many cars I see driving around with a light out.

    #980

    NottsRich
    Participant

    It’s fine as long as you put your front foglights on, at least that’s what seems to happen round here…

    Lights, tyres, screenwash, wiper blades, spare wheel if fitted and give it a really good thrash at high revs immediately before the test if it’s a diesel.

    #981

    nomad
    Participant

    Also make sure to check wipers, windscreen washers etc etc..

    I have a question is it worth adding redex or premium fuel before a test? Emissions tests are getting stricter.

    #982

    mo
    Participant

    give it a really good thrash at high revs immediately before the test if it’s a diesel.

    What does this achieve?

    #983

    jo
    Participant

    I was told, by a chap who owned a garage that ran MOT tests, that most diesel-engined cars would fail on emissions unless they were thoroughly warm when dropped off for the test.

    That is a bit different from a good thrash at high revs, however.

    #984

    holycow
    Participant

    What does this achieve?

    Makes sure the DPF has regenerated and is working at peak ability would be my guess.

    I have a shamefully old diesel that’s pre DPF; I try and avoid ever going over 2000 rpm as the resultant filth from the exhaust horrifies me. These days it’s my 2nd car and is only used in proper northern winter conditions, proper floods and for the occasional large load. I’d replace it but I don’t know what with. It’s a 2003 X-Trail; all the newer SUVs have rather lost the robust agricultural engineering and morphed into expensive school run wagons. The next natural step I think is a Hilux or similar. I’m holding off in the hope of Nissan releasing an electric Navara and me winning big on the premium bonds…

    #985

    NottsRich
    Participant

    As said earlier the engine needs to be warm, but a mechanic said that since the diesel emissions test includes a spell at higher than usual revs, a good thrash to remove as much soot as possible usually gets an older vehicle through the test.

    #986

    yuppie
    Participant

    All lights including headlight angle, tire pressures, and tread levels, fluid levels (oil, washers, brake, clutch where it’s a separate reservoir), wiper blades, washer jet alignments, spare wheel (where applicable), horn. A look at the brakes and a sharp break from 40 mph with hands hovering over the wheel on a long/straight/flat/empty road to check for pull. Handbrake test (most mornings on a steep approach to traffic lights hill start…)

    Mostly things I do every 2-8 weeks anyhow.

    Other occasionally checks I do but not specifically for an MOT, where applicable – A yearly look at suspension coils to check for paint chips indicative of future metal failure, a glance to check that leaf springs haven’t wandered back to the 18th century, a look at suspension arms and joints, rotate a wheel up in a jack and listen to it (typically just when changing to/from winter wheels and tyres), a look at the sump, transfer box and diff(s) for oil leaks. **** you X-trail secondary sump of crap and your ceased, deformed bolts. On the BMW I plug in a Carly OBD unit and read out the fault codes once or twice a year.

    I should probably check the 12v battery occasionally but I never have on anything and have never had a problem. I’ve never even seen t on the 3-series. I think it’s in the boot somewhere.

    My wife’s car goes in for its first MOT this autumn. I think all I will check is fluids (just brakes and washers), tires and breaks. Difficult though as my safe brake test road is far enough from home that the battery pack will be low enough for braking to use the motor/generator and regenerate so it’s not a pure-hydraulic brake test.

    #987

    Sai
    Participant

    MOTs are only really about making sure the car is working ok atathe very moment it’s tested, It’s not like a service that’s intended to keep the car running well for the next year or more. Things like tyres, if you have 1.7 mm tread over more than 75% of the tyre without any uneven wear patterns that would be a pass with advisory note but I’d never drive a vehicle with tyres in this condition. Brakes are a similar case, so long as they work on the rollers efficiency test they will pass but the pads or shoes could be really thin. Things like engine oil aren’t checked

    #988

    adam
    Participant

    Book the MOT and take it in, most of the potential issues should have been picked up in your regular checks and maintenance throughout the year.

    If you haven’t spotted them the MOT tester will, that is what you are paying them for.

    #989

    adam
    Participant

    Unless something is obviously hanging off or broken I just stick it in for test, fix what it fails on, free re-test.

    #990

    nick123
    Participant

    Bear in mind if it’s a ‘dangerous’ fail you won’t be able to drive it away and fix it.

    https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/mot-changes-from-may-2018-guidance-for-mot-testers/overview-of-mot-changes-from-may-2018

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